AUTHORITARIAN STYLE

IS the contemporary work suit a direct descendant of the war uniform?

Why do we dress in authoritative style, like uniforms and work suits? Is it because we want to exude control, command respect, show responsibility, portray seriousness, or just to gain power? Or is it because we like the feel of a well-tailored suit, that was made for one person only – yourself?  Because it makes you feel good?

The links between fashion and the politics of gender have long been recognized. Similarly, that the aesthetic sensibility of fashion has both influenced – and been influenced by – the social context from which it emerges, is also well-covered ground. But fashion’s relationship to gender, militarism, and the gendering of military violence, whether as explicit as the manufacturing of Nazi uniforms by Hugo Boss in the 1940s, to the more subtle as seen in the incorporation of camouflage into generations of street wear, is something that often escapes notice.

For example, take a look at the history of Hugo Boss: Like many other companies of the time, (Siemens, Mercedes, Volkswagen, Krupps, IBM, Ford), Hugo Boss supported the Nazi war effort by supplying uniforms during World War II and most likely did so using slave labour. They started as a small German clothing factory and eventually became the international menswear powerhouse, styling and supplying business soldiers and international business mercenaries all over the world today.

It brings to mind the phrase “Business is War” and highlights the ethical and moral absence when, for example, one company takes over another, fires all the employees, bleeds it dry of resources, and closes it down, impacting the lives of thousands of people. “It’s just Business”. It seems the modern term ‘Business’ can be used as a cloak for a range of atrocities, in the same way that ‘World War‘ was used in the last century. It’s just become more refined. Today, war is business…

Anyway, the revelation about Hugo Boss appeared in the latest issue of the Austrian current affairs magazine Profil. A statement from Hugo Boss AG, which is based in Metzingen, Germany, details and confirms much of the account.

“The clothing factory founded by Mr. Hugo Boss manufactured work clothes and we think SS uniforms as well. . . . So far, we have no archives in the company and we’re currently trying to find what was going on,”

..according to Monika Steilen, spokeswoman for Hugo Boss AG, by phone from headquarters in Metzingen, Germany.

Hugo Boss started his clothing company in 1923 in Metzingen, where it is still based, a small town south of Stuttgart, Germany. However, due to the economic climate in Germany at the time Boss was forced into bankruptcy in 1930. Undeterred, Hugo set up a new business and in 1931 became a member of the Nazi party. With the rise of Adolf Hitler in 1933, Boss’s business also began to prosper as he became the official supplier of uniforms to the SA and SS.

Exposed in 1997, Hugo Boss admitted that not only did its factories make uniforms for the German SS, storm troopers, Wehrmacht and Hitler Youth, they probably did so with slave labour.

While today Boss uses black for slimming effects, in the SS uniforms it was used to command respect and fear in the populace. Members of the Hitler Youth were also decked out in Boss wear, teaching children an early lesson in looking good whilst torturing minorities. Most of the uniforms were made in what can be considered the forerunner to the modern day sweatshop, at times by Prisoners of War.

It’s impossible to underestimate the importance of those uniforms to the overall Nazi image. To this day, they are essentially synonymous with “evil”,  however, unlike the products of some other companies (Siemens, Krupps) the uniforms weren’t directly responsible for killing people.

The influence of the design has been widespread, especially in film, where their influence has been noted in the outfits of the Imperial officers from Star Wars. The creator of Star Wars, the George Lucas has stated that many historical events have been used in the Star Wars saga, for example, that the Empire was based on Nazi Germany. The storm troopers from the movies share a name with the Nazi stormtroopers (Sturmabteilung).

The imperial officers’ uniforms also resemble some (historical) German Army uniforms, for example, the Waffen-SS.

CHANEL COMMANDANTE

The Chanel Pre-Fall 2009 Collection brought Imperialism back to our collective consciousness, ranging from slightly decadent opulence to an overpowering Imperial theme.

The impressive collection, inspired from the imperial court and the lifestyle of the Russian Tzar, was hosted by the sumptuous Théâtre le Ranelagh in Paris.

Russian folklore was strongly represented in the stylized traditional embroideries and patterns, and the refreshing combinations of military-tailored tunics, paired with large, glittering Cossack pants and high furry boots.

ITALIAN STYLE POLICE

Style and function are inseparable in Italy and this is reflected in attitudes to dress. In Rome, the Carabinieri are dressed in dark blue, with the red stripe down the side of the trousers, designed by Valentino. Carabinieri squad cars are dark blue with red trim, and their horses are usually bay in color.

The Polizia have blue jackets and bluish grey trousers with a fuchsia pinstripe running down the side. The Carabinieri are actually members of the Italian Army, which is the major difference between them and the Polizia, who are civilians.

STYLE IN THE SKY

A more reassuring use of authoritarian style is apparent when we take a plane somewhere. We like the fact that that the Captain has the four golden stripes on his arm, it convinces us that we will have a safe and secure flight.

ARMANI AIRLINES

In the early 1990s, The Italian airline Alitalia hired Armani to design outfits for its flight attendants, as well as the interiors of its MD-11 airliners. Armani has recently secured a contract with the American, Italian, French, and Iraqi armies and will be making uniforms for all top officials. In the 1980s, the black Armani “power suit” for men and women came to symbolize an era of international economic boom.

DANISH ROYAL GUARD

A more romantic and nostalgic uniform is the Royal Guardsmen of the Queen in Copenhagen. It is a nice break in the daily life, when you stop and watch the parade and the changing of the guards in Store Kongensgade or at the Castle of Amalienborg.

The ordinary uniform of the Royal Guards while they are on guard duty is dark blue. Their full dress uniform is very similar to that of the Foot Guards regiments of the British Army: a scarlet tunic; blue trousers; and a bearskin with the regiment’s cap badge (the Sun and Royal Coat of Arms); together with the symbolic infantry sabre, which is part of the spoils from the First Schleswig War 1848-1850 and originally a French infantry sabre.

Practically all of the uniforms worn by the Royal Guard date back to the middle of the 18th. century, and is actually the original equipment from then – tended and cared for by each new soldier from year to year.

Wouldn’t it be an idea if they also had a battalion of female Royal Guards? One very practical suggestion for a Summer uniform design could be:

SOURCES :
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Tagged as: Armani, Authoritarian, Hugo Boss, Star Wars, Valentino